With the electrical system in place, I could begin installing electrical gadgetry. One of the biggest gadgets under the dash is the windshield wiper assembly consisting of the wiper pivots and the motor and bracket. The pivots had to go in first and mine were caked in old paint and strip caulk so first I had to clean them up. I removed the old paint with a wire brush and meticulous use of an xacto knife and peeled away the old strip caulk. Besides the caulk, the pivots are sealed against the elements with leather gaskets that go between the pivot and the underside of the inner cowl. I opted for modern rubber seals but first I applied new strip caulk around the screw holes first. I mounted the pivots to the cowl with three bolts each.
|Before cleanup. Original strip caulk and not-so-original paint.|
|New strip caulk|
|New rubber seal|
The wiper motor was a mess as well so I took apart the assembly, media blasted the bracket and various parts, cleaned up the motor, and repainted it all. I then put it all back together and mounted up under the dash by it's four mounting bolts and clipped the pivot actuator arms to the motor swing arm.
|After cleanup (arm side)|
|After cleanup (motor side)|
Next, I mounted the headlight and ignition switches. I covered the headlight switch pretty well when I blogged it's removal. Basically, there's a center barrel that screws into the switch body and pulls the bevel against the dash and the switch body on the other side. The switch plunger can then just be inserted into the hole and locked in. Then the wiring harness is plugged in.
|Switch body with inner bracket.|
|Outer bevel and center barrel that screws into the switch body.|
|Plug in the harness|
|And re-insert the switch knob.|
|The ignition switch assembly.|
|Ready to go.|
|Reassembled and painted.|
|Back in it's place of honor.|
The driver side vent was yet another adventure in restoration. The inside of it was the host of a pack rat nest when I tore it apart so the flapper inside was a rusty mess. I removed the pivot shaft and flapper and carefully removed the rubber seal from around the edge of the flapper and then media blasted the metal parts and repainted them. I then reinstalled the rubber seal with contact cement. I used 3/4" foam rubber weather seal around the mounting flange since the original seal was long gone. The cable was another adventure in that it was broken. A little research revealed that these plastic cables are horribly designed and prone to self-destruction. New cables are around $40 each so I opted to employ my old friend "Shoo Goo" and applied it in such a way that it will have to be ground off the bracket if I ever choose to replace this cable with a new factor cable. I gave the "fix" a fair abuse test and it held up well and showed no signs of letting go of the plastic cable housing nor the metal bracket so I'm just going to go with it... and if anybody has a used one of these cables that's in serviceable condition for around $20 shipped, let me know (but I won't hold my breath).
|Repaired flapper and new weather seal.|
|Side view with "fixed" cable.|
|All mounted up.|
|Parking brake handle assembly cleaned up with new handle.|
|Cable routed through the firewall.|
|Cable housing routed below the floor.|
|Cable routed through the tunnel support to the e-brake actuator.|
|Connected to the e-brake handle which is bolted to the firewall on one end.|
|And the dash on the other.|