|Here's what we started with. The quintessential "before" pic.|
I first plugged all of the ports with old socks so water and other non-engine-friendly fluids and particles could not get in. Then I sprayed the engine down with a can of EZ-Off HD oven cleaner since it was heavily touted in the VMF discussions as the cure-all for cleaning up an engine and waited for about 30 minutes for it to work it's magic. I cranked up my power spray and rinsed off the remaining goo, flipped the engine upside down, sprayed on some more oven cleaner and hit it with the power spray again.
|All foamed up with EZ-Off HD oven cleaner.|
|Well, it's still rusty but it looks like the grease is gone.|
|$30 of parts put together just right = A Leak Down Tester|
The business end of the tester consists of a spark plug that I gutted and welded a 1/4" air compressor air hose barb to which is screwed into the cylinder spark plug hole. The other end of the hose connects to the tester which is connected to the air compressor.
|A gutted spark plug welded to a hose barb.|
Testing is begun on cylinder #1 which is set to TDC on the compression stroke.
|TDC on the compression stroke.|
The tester is calibrated to 100 PSI on the gauge, engine side hose detached. The engine hose is then attached and you can see the resulting pressure difference on the regulator. A good cylinder will show about 80-90 lbs PSI on the gauge indicating that very little air is being lost. Mine showed... a bit less. 20 lbs, indicating that either I'm on an exhaust stroke or I have some serious cylinder problems. The latter proved to be true. Oh the disappointment of a newbie brought to a hard realization. All cylinders indicated a massive loss, by the way. Not just #1. Only two cylinders maintained 40 pounds of pressure which still fails the test badly. At this point, I'm thinking stuck rings and/or stuck valves so I came to the decision to do a complete rebuild of the engine.
I started the disassembly with the water pump.
|Several well-placed rusty old bolts hold the pump to the timing cover.|
|Um... the harmonic balancer needs to come off first genius.|
|Yanking the intake manifold|
|Sludge Valley, OR|
|One of these things is not like the others.|
Next, I inspected the cylinder expecting to see all kinds of horrible scoring, melted piston tops, carbon build up and... well, they don't look all that bad to me either.
|Not seeing horrible disfigurement.|
|Don't know if this is bad or not.|
|Pulled the main crank bolt.|
|Got it off and NOW the timing cover can be removed.|
Here's the timing assembly. It came off next.
|Timing assembly. Looks like a lot of play to me.|
NOTE: Most people remove the flex plate/flywheel BEFORE they put it on the engine stand. I left it to help me stop the crank from rotating and/or making it easier to rotate the crank while tearing down the engine. Although, the block plate did get in the way sometimes. It wasn't too difficult to remove when it needed to come off.
|Still a lot of fluids in there.|
|Cranky engine crank|
Yuck! The pickup screen was packed with all kinds of crap.
|Not picking up much oil these days by the looks of it.|
|Any idea what this stuff was?|
I got as far as removing piston #1. The piston rod bearing surface looks a bit scored.
|Needs machining me thinks|
After removing the piston rod cap, I pushed the #1 piston out of the cylinder. Monroe's book indicates that I should need to ream the ridge from the top of the cylinder sleeve first but the piston just came right out. And then the top compression ring fell to the floor. That explains why the compression wasn't so great (on that cylinder anyway).
|#1 piston with it's broken ring.|
|The cylinder and broken ring.|
|This is what the block looked like after this entry.|