I started with the front cylinders and worked to the back alternately removing one side and then the other. Each and every piston easily cleared the ridge at the top of the cylinder and then had to be carefully worked over the ridge for the second compression ring and the oil ring. Unsurprisingly, the top compression ring on each and every cylinder (except #8) was broken. I questioned the VMF as to how this happened and the consensus was that I likely broke them when I "forced" them over the ridge. The problem with this is that I didn't force the first ring at all but the 2nd and oil rings (neither of which broke on any cylinder). So, my current belief is that the PO had the engine "rebuilt" with new rings but didn't bother to ream the ridge from the top of the cylinder. I think that the top rings, having no chance to conform to the ridges slowly as when the ridges were formed, snapped under the stress of slamming into the ridge upon each cycle while running. This would also explain why every cylinder was leaking during the leak-down test discussed in Part 1 of Seeking Motorvation.
|Well, there's your problem!|
|Loosen the bolts|
|Note the caps are sequentially numbered. Don't mix them up!|
|The crank is ready to be removed. Tip: Remove the backing plate first.|
After removing the caps, the backing plate had to be removed which actually required me to hoist the block off the engine stand, remove the plate, and then replace it back onto the stand. The crank could then be removed and set aside. Yeah, I know that EVERYBODY else removes the flex plate and block plate before they start but this worked for me. It was nice to use the flex plate to rotate the assembly while tearing the motor down.
|All safely nestled in it's block.|
|Remove that retainer plate and the cam is yours.|
|Slide it out.|
|One way to do it.|
|Ready for the machine shop.|
This last Friday I took the block to a machine shop. I may also have the block magnafluxed and/or machined based on findings by the machinist. More to come.