|OMG, they're beautiful.|
|The heads are identical castings.|
|Head bolts all cleaned up with wire wheel.|
|Head gasket installed. Note the water passage holes at the back of the block.|
|Threads sealed before insertion.|
|Both heads are on and torqued!|
After the heads were on, it came time to insert the hydraulic valve lifters in their holes to contact the cam lobes. Before they can be tossed in a hole, they need to be primed by squiring oil into the side hole until it bubbles out the top hole. I just used a squeeze bottle with a red WD40 straw tucked into it's nozzle. The WD40 straw fit nearly perfect into the side hole but you really have to use a bit of constant force to inject oil into the passages of the lifter. Eventually, a little pool of oil will form in the top indention and you'll know the job is done. The lifter can then be lubed with oil (I used cam lube) and inserted in its hole.
|A box of 16 new lifters.|
|Primed with a fresh pool of oil on the top indention.|
|All lifters primed, lubed, and inserted.|
|12 old push rods all cleaned up.. the other 4 were bent.|
|Push rods all snug in their lifters.|
|The rocker nut on the right is much further down the stud?|
|The plunger is depressed further on that one. I re-primed it.|
I used Permatex Ultra-Black RTV around the water jacket holes on the gaskets and across the front and back of the block instead of using the factory style cork gaskets that are notorious for leaking. I also cleaned up the bolts and gave them the phosphate and oil treatment. Although the original engine came with a 2 barrel carburetor, I did some math and was shocked to discover that 4 is greater than 2 so I bought a 68 4 barrel manifold from a guy off Craigslist for $50. The new manifold had some rust but looked like the underside had been blasted. However I was boggled as to why the heat shield on the bottom of the manifold seemed askew. There was a large gap to one side that wasn't present on my old (dirty) manifold. Somebody had actually gone to the trouble of removing the spiral rivets to take off the heat shield and then put it back on backwards. !?? I was boggled by this. What type of mental state would one have to be in to know how to remove and reinstall spiral rivets but not notice that the shield was backwards? So, I removed said shield, cleaned the rivets and their holes, used some loctite on them, replaced the shield (correctly), and carefully hammered the rivets back into place. I cleaned up the top of the manifold with wire wheels and some ospho, repainted it, cleaned the mating surfaces thoroughly, and mounted it on the engine. Somehow, I positioned it perfectly over the bolt holes the first time, sealed the bolt threads, and torqued them down in stages and in torque sequence.
|Intake gaskets and RTV in place.|
|Old manifold compared to the "new" $50 4-barrel.|
|Bottom side comparison. Notice that gap in the heat shield of the top one?|
|Heat shield removed|
|Turned it around correctly and re-riveted.|
|Cleaned, painted, and torqued.|
Finally, with much pomp and ceremony, I set them down upon the heads like royal blue crowns, bolted them down with shiny new valve cover bolts, and deemed the lions share of the rebuild, "Complete".
|New valve cover gaskets "after"|
|Dun Dun DONE! Now just little stuff.|
This all literally would not have been possible if not for This little blue book. I highly recommend it to anybody that's never seen the inside of a 289 before.
So, that pretty much sums up the "Seeking Motorvation" series. Now all that's left are the little engine bits. I'll probably update this entry with a couple more pics later.