Sunday, February 21, 2010

Do Overs!

Well, I sealed the seams but the seams seem unseemly.  The seams that will be hidden under body panels are okay but a few seams will be seen so I chose to redo those seams.   And, since the weather was 60 degrees and sunny, I decided also to revisit my old friend, media blast issue #4.

However, I opted to start with the do over of the seam sealer.  I was particularly unhappy with how the door jambs turned out as you can see here:

I started out by scraping away the new sealer:

Then I ground the remnants away with my drill and wire brush. I didn't use the angle grinder wire wheel on this because it would have been a little too aggressive with the new primer:

Then lacquer thinner to clean the area and then a new coat of primer:

Now that the door jamb is fresh as a daisy, it was time to lay down a new bead of sealer.  This time I chose NAPA brand firm gray sealer:

The tools of the trade for me this time were an acid brush and a 3/4" strip of a previously 3" wide rubber body filler spreader:

I dipped the spreader in lacquer thinner and squeegied the bead of sealer while following along the seam at a slight angle like a snow plow:

I did the other side the same way.  The rubber spreader worked so well, I did away with the acid brush altogether.  It works best if you keep it soaked in lacquer thinner:

I then followed a similar procedure along the seam between the rocker panel and the rear quarter:

Again, between quarter and deck lid filler panel:



And at the rear trunk corner seams:


Finished with the seam sealer, I moved on to the repaint of the damaged section of the engine compartment where the media blaster had burned through some of the paint:

I disassembled the area, masked it off, and sanded damaged areas down until I couldn't feel bumps and then sanded some more with a 300 grit.  I scuffed all of the areas where I would apply new paint and cleaned the area with lacquer thinner:

I then repainted the area with PPG Deltron DBC9295.

The result looks okay to my noob-vision:

I'm not 100% sure if I should have reprimed the area first.   I didn't do my usual research on this task before doing it.  I hope it doesn't come back and bite me in the ass but it probably will.  It's hidden quite well behind the steering box, brake M/C, and distribution block but that could be a bad thing as well because if the paint does go bad, I'll have hell to pay to touch it up again.


  1. Looking good! Keep it up and post some more blogs while the weather is nice. I should have an update by this weekend on my 66. I've had a few re-do's so as long as you are happy with it and think original as much as possible you cannot go wrong.

  2. Thanks for the insightful comment James. I'm looking forward to your next blog entry.

  3. Looking good- I finally read the preface to your journey and I could have written an identical piece! I've just moved onto the priming/sanding phase of my 68' stang convertible and have a couple of tips:

    1) Buy Larry Lyles Project Mustang book

    2) Buy some AFS sanders

    I could have saved many hours of filling and sanding had I had the right information and tools at the start. Oh- I now know why a show quality paint job can cost upwards of $20K...

    Keep up the good work!

  4. Thanks JAPR! I just put in an order for the Larry Lyles book and I just watched the intro video on I bought some DuroBlocks but the AFS blocks look like a much more dynamic sanding system. I'll buy some if I decide to do my own body finish/paint. I still haven't made up my mind on that aspect of the restoration yet. Thanks for the tips!

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